So the plan at the moment is to have the mainline and Picton Station and yard environs on the bottom deck with the top deck being the Loopline with Thirlmere and Hill Top as the stations. I'm also going going to mix some eras as well with the Loopline being set prior to the deviation and duplication in 1919 and the bottom deck, as I've said before, in the 1930's. Both Elscotto and I have a number of carriages and locomotives from the 19th Century that will need something like the Loopline for them to run in an appropriate environment. I'm also using some modeller's licence in that the infrastructure for the loopline, as being used as the mainline in the 19th Century, won't be too much different from that used in the early 20th Century as a branch line. This will allow me to run CPH's and 13's in my "Modern" time frame as well as running A's, B's and D's in the "Early Days" No doubt, there will be some wayward J's and O's struggling up the 1 in 30's as well.
Here's some photo's of the progress so far.
The ply and track is just for effect
The "Spray Booth"
The work bench and storage cabinet
This is where Thirlmere will be
Aside from the baseboard progress, I've been painting a batch of refrigerator wagons including 2 x SRC, 2 x MRC, 2 x BRC, a Howlin and a Tiffany, Summer and Winter Car.
This week, I intend to finish the painting of the refrigerator cars and maybe I'll be able to start on the rest of the wagons.
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Thanks for adding the photos - they really help to understand how you're building the layout. And since I am building my layout in a garage with brick walls, I was especially interested in how you've supported the benchwork. You're using angled metal brackets to support the benchwork, and I am looking at doing something similar as well. I have been a bit reluctant to rely on metal brackets since I am concerned the outer edge of the layout may (over time) sag a little, especially if attaching lighting from the outside edge of an upper deck to light a lower deck. What was your thinking about using the metal brackets and how strong you think they are?
ReplyDeleteThanks!
Hi Brad,
ReplyDeleteNo problems regarding the photo's. It's why we do these things so we can share what we do and how we do it.
Anyway, I'm using 42 x 19 mm pine for the baseboard frames which turn out to be very light yet quite strong and rigid. I attach the metal brackets to a piece of pine laid on its side to which the frames are then attached to. This gives an "L" section where the frame attaches to the brackets which I feel will be strong enough not to warp. Also, I'm using 2 types of brackets which are available at Bunnings. One type is stamped metal and is quite light but is braced and appears to be resonably strong. They are attached to the wall and frame by 3 screws. The other type is much heavier and is made from approximatley 3mm steel bar and reinfoirced with a welded angle. Agsin this attachs with 3 screws. This one is quite strong. I can take some detail photo's if this isn't clear. I guess it's a bit of an experiment but i feel that the 'L" section at the steel brackets will prevent warpage. Anyway time will tell. Ihaven't really reached a conclusion yet about the lighting for the bottom deck so I'm also open to ideas!
Cheers,
Rob
Rob,
ReplyDeleteThanks for that. I have looked previously at our local "Magnet Mart" and seen the brackets you've used. They seemed a tad expensive but I guess they're pretty important to hold the layout up!
I plan to experiment too. I will try bolting a length of thick wood on the inner side of the brick columns and then attach a wooden gusset from there to hold up the benchwork. The wooden gusset is a piece of 5 ply (the width of the baseboard) cut in half into a triangle (or a piece with an arc cut into it). I am hoping this will work and be cheaper than buying the heavy brackets from Bunnings or Magnet Mart. Still, the brackets look a simpler way to go!